Posted on Thursday 21 February 2008
i’m in San Francisco again. It’s still a far cry from what i pictured in my earlier post, but i will say that i like it. i like the place very much.
There are just as many homeless people here this year as there were last year, and they’re the most upsetting thing about the city. i really have to wonder at the hearts and priorities of the people living here when there are so, so many middle-aged men - all of them black - wandering around downtown either shouting for money or enjoying a crack buzz. Homelessness is, of course, a very complex and difficult problem in many places in the world. What i find suspicious about so many American cities is that the homeless people have dark brown skin.
Here in Toronto, a veritable “tossed salad” of faces and skin tones, as they say, it becomes a bit of a Where’s Waldo exercise to find black homeless people. Our homeless come in all stripes. What’s more, you get a lot of independantly wealthy “weekend homeless”, who appear out of nowhere on weekends in only the high-traffic areas of town. Some of them, like the bearded guy on the Southeast corner of Bay and Bloor, are destitute.
Bearded Guy lies around in a sleeping bag on the sidewalk moaning, cup in hand. The curious thing about Bearded Guy is that he’s only homeless from Thursday to Sunday, and he’s only on the sidewalk when there’s no snow. It’s exciting to know that he is blessed with a miraculous healing experience as soon as tourist and pedestrian traffic dies down, only to spiral into dire need the following weekend. Quite a roller coaster of a life.
Aside from being black, the key difference in San Francisco’s career panhandlers is that they’re much more creative and enterprising. i walked out of my hotel with a fellow i met on the plane, and a very eccentric-looking but absolutely groovy black guy smooved up to us. He was wearing a caramel-coloured shiny leather trenchcoat with a cool black fedora. He was small and scrappy, like i imagine James Brown to be, and he had crystal blue contact lenses that unnerved me a little. He gave us three restaurant recommendations, told a joke, showed us a mathemagical trick, and told us how to get to the tiki bar i wanted to visit, all before finally hitting his pitch about how he wanted to go down the block and tuck into a big bacon cheeseburger. After all that, i was glad to throw him a few bones.
When i walked out of the Bay Area Rapid Transit Station, a panhandler shouted with open arms “WELCUMM A SAN FRANCISCAAA!”.
Contrastingly, pro panhandlers in Toronto expect you to give them money. The most they’ll do for you is open the door to the subway or to Tim Horton’s when you’re perfectly capable of doing it yourself. Most often, you’ll just get a guy robotically chanting “Spare change ma’am. Spare change ma’am. Spare change sir. Spare some change ma’am.” It seems like the difference between a country where everyone is taken care of through social service programs and welfare, vs a country where you’re on your own and completely screwed, while constantly being fed the line that opportunity is all around you and you get out of life what you put into it.
i also hear the sourdough in San Francisco is pretty good.