Westward Ho

Posted on Saturday 10 September 2005

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Halifax and the wedding behind us, we checked out of the dorm and drove out past the foggy harbour towards Cape Breton. i had heard that the Celeidh Trail up the West side resounded with music and dancing every night, and i knew that i’d be unable to enjoy it because of my wife’s 9:30 barf deadline. i knew that the Cabot Trail provided one of the most breathtaking vistas in North America, and somewhere in my heart of hearts, i knew my wife was gonna wreck that too.

Cape Breton was one of the biggest disappointments of the trip. i don’t regret going there, but i do realize that it’s a rugged, outdoorsy-type place to visit that’s entirely inappropriate for pregnant ladies. i was already pushing my wife past her threshold with all the driving, sleeping on hard beds and paddling against the current in sea kayaks, so i suppose i’m lucky we were still married at that point. Or, more grimly, that she was still pregnant.

i would have liked to have explored more of the hiking trails around the island, and to see a real live moose, which was a must-accomplish goal i set for myself before striking out for the coast. Alas, as i sit here writing, i have never seen a real live moose in the wild. Everything about the Cabot Trail was amazing and exciting and horribly suited to my wife, including the camp site i picked on the side of a rocky cliff overlooking the ocean in Meat Cove, at the Northern tip of the island. i’d like to go back some day and explore the place a little more thoroughly; that, i think, was the prime function of the trip - to do a quick survey of Eastern Canada so that we could return later and re-experience the best bits. Under any other circumstances, i think Cape Breton would qualify.

After leaving Cape Breton and pulling some absolutely heart-stopping James Bond-style mountain road driving (i gunned it and passed two giant rigs just before a motorcycle flew past in the oncoming lane - it was AWESOME!), we headed back West and towards home, but we weren’t ready to pack it in before stuffing our vacation to the gills with a few more things.

These things included visiting PEI, a place so heartbreakingly beautiful that i wanted to quit my job immediately and move there (no mean desire for a die-hard city boy), and seeing Moncton’s undeservedly famous Magnetic Hill. This place is a hill where, since you can’t see the horizon, an optical illusion emerges to make you think that your car, after being shifted into neutral, is rolling backwards up an incline. (It’s not - it’s rolling downhill. Now you have saved five dollars.) We also had a meal at St. Hubert, a pricier but vastly superior restuarant to Canada’s chicken chain darling Swiss Chalet.

The St. Hubert was in Moncton, which i thought was a large enough place, but when i got back to work and told Wandabun about my trip, she asked me which St. Hubert i went to.

Oh that one! My mom’s worked there for 20 years. Who served you? Oh, her? Bigger lady, wears those pearl earrings? Yeah, everybody hates her, etc.

Small world! i was floored.

The entire, epic vacation ended with a trip back to Oshawa and another wedding. By that time, we were sick of driving and weddings and restaurants and tourist traps and, on a few more occasions, my wife threw up.

But then, it was Oshawa. ;)

Allyson @ 7:31 pm
Filed under: Etc
Kayakaoke

Posted on Saturday 10 September 2005

The impetus for our trip was to hit up the wedding of an old acquaintance, a guy i went to high school with and someone i really appreciate and respect very much, but someone who (as fate would have it) i’ve not been able to keep in close contact with over the past few years. Still, whenever a friend or a former friend or a dormant friend, as i like to think of this guy, decides to get married, i care very much to uphold that tradition and honour his or her decision. i am a fan of marriage.

The girl he was marrying in Halifax was, and is, an absolute hottie. She’s very cute and very personable and very pleasant to be around, which was a really nice change of pace because my friend has had nothing but the worst luck with the ladies. He’s one of these guys who manages to seek out girls with whom he’s entirely, abominally mismatched, and it was great to see that him take the plunge with someone uh … well, for lack of a better word, worthy.

The rehearsal party was held at a really nice little boat club on the water in Halifax, where we arrived that afternoon after saying goodbye to the goats and geese and parrots and things in New Brunswick. The sunset was beautiful, the people were friendly and it was a very nice time. There’s nothing sarcastic or angry i can think to say about it, which is bound to make this a pretty boring journal entry.

Oh wait - now i remember. Someone thought it was a good idea to do karaoke. It wasn’t.

Believe me, i can understand the karaoke impulse. i myself toyed with the idea of having it at my wedding, until enough people made me realize what a horribly catastrophic idea it was. It’d be different if my entire family was comprised of circus performers or small-time Canadian celebrities who do Listerine and Tampax commercials, but they’re not. They’re run-of-the-mill people, as were the people at the Halifax wedding. And they couldn’t sing worth a damn. But, as is the kurse of karaoke, they all thought they were far, far better than they actually were.

There’s something about the engineering of Karaoke machines that turns people into instantly awful performing artists. i mean, if someone puts on a CD and plays a song that most people know, most people can hum or sing along in time to the music and then belt out the chorus with a reasonable degree of success. But when you add that herculean task of reading lyrics to the expectation of staying in time with the music, you’ve apparently set up most of the world for failure.

People - and by this, i mean 98 percent of all semi- to fully-literate human beings - cannot read lyrics and sing in time to music. They cannot. It is not a skill that most human beings possess. And despite its tenuous relation to talent or musical ability, i don’t honestly think that singing in time is the hard part. It’s the reading. People just can’t read. It’s the same reason why every year during those awards shows you get perfectly articulate actors reading teleprompters and sounding all stilted and halting as that creepy voice that comes out of Stephen Hawking’s wheelchair. People can’t read. They can’t read fluidly or passably or in any way that makes them sound anything but ignorant. Forget musical talent - i think reading is the real talent. It’s becoming apparent to me lately that the thing that sets really intelligent people apart - the quality about them that belies an ability to learn well and work effectively and just generally be an impressive sort of person - is strong literacy.

So forget about Grandpa Earl botching the lyrics to “Yesterday” so badly that he was 2 and a half lines behind the music. i could rant about karaoke til the cows came home. Believe it.

When we finally trundled out of the boat club, my wife was feeling nauseous. One of the most crucial things we learned on the trip was that, like an extremely unappealing Cinderella, if my wife wasn’t back in the palace by 9:30 PM, she’d start throwing up. So on the way through the parking lot, she started throwing up. An older couple was staring uncomfortably at us from a parked sedan across the lot. Now you have to understand that my wife abhors drinking, to the point where she’d almost rather be caught dead than caught drunk, so between retches she hollared out to the people “i’m not drunk! i’m just pregnant! HOOOOWAAARRRRRRRRFFFFGGGH!” The people looked unfazed, as though she had said “grey is my favourite colour!” Not everyone shares her convictions about alcoholism.

We retired to the dorm where we were staying, a place called King’s College University, and one of the nearly eight hundred universities i’m lead to believe there exist in Nova Scotia. The bed was a slab, and the bathroom was upstairs. Every door in the place made a very loud barking noise whenever it was opened because the wood sat too snugly in the frame, and this made for some very restless mornings. The front desk was manned by a succession of King’s College students, all of who uh … well, to be kind, let’s say they’d be crap at karaoke. i think it was the type of school that taught a lot of … sports admin, if you get my drift.

The next few days in Halifax were enjoyable. We ate, too often, at Cows Ice Cream, part of the famous East Coast chain that, i swear, adds a pinch of heroin to every cone. Nothing else explains why i craved it like oxygen. We walked along the waterfront eating our ice cream and listening to the street performers, most of whom played really disappointingly nonstandard East coast instruments like cellos and kazoos. It wasn’t until we sat down near a fiddler that we finally felt like we were getting the true, stereotypical Halifax experience.

The wedding itself was also a good time, despite the fact that i had to drive my wife back to the dorm early because it was past 9:30 and the lovely dinner she’d just eaten was coming out her nose. i returned to do some dancing, and it was all very fine.

The next morning we took the best man, the groom’s brother, West half an hour to a place called Terence Bay, where we signed up for a sea kayaking trip. We had the choice of single or double kayaks and perdictably, foolishly, i opted for my own boat, leaving my pregnant and often angry-at-everything wife to fend for herself in her own craft.

Owing to my summer of dragonboating, i had no trouble keeping up with the group, but my poor wife lagged behind us for miles, trying to grasp the paddling technique. i felt so bad that she couldn’t get it, but so good sea kayaking, that i was put in one of those awkward positions where i had to choose between the woman i love and myself, whom i also love very very much. True to form, i kept paddling.

The trip was marred only by the fact that my wife wanted to set me on fire with her eyes when she finally caught up. She eventually got the hang of the stroke, but by that time, after seeing ocean and starfish and lobster traps and cormorants, we were fighting a mild current back up the bay towards the dock. And it started to get humid outside. It was the kind of humidity that i found mildly uncomfortable, and that my wife found was like a flaming sheet of burning magma blanketing her boat.

Pregnant women’s bodies do a lot of strange, unpredictable things, and at that moment my wife’s body decided to elevate its temperature 400 degrees. She barely made it back in one piece, gasping for air and shouting “it’s so bloody HAWT! i’m gonna take my clothes off!” It was kinda like they sing it in that hip hop song, except a lot more angry and not quite as acceptable when it’s your wife. The instructor offered to tow her back to the dock, but my wife sometimes sprouts a stubbornly independant streak, and despite the sweat she was determined to get back on her own.

When she did get back, she peeled herself down to a thin white T-shirt and draped herself over a picnic table, letting her overheated and exhausted body ooze through the slats in the wood. Friends, t’weren’t pretty. i knew i had been a bad man at that point. i knew i should have helped her out more. But i also knew that that sea kayaking lesson was the awesomest thing i would do on the entire trip.

Allyson @ 6:36 pm
Filed under: Etc
My vegetarian fanbase vanishes

Posted on Saturday 3 September 2005

Our travels had brought us to the Family Treasures Inn which i, on a few occasions, called the “Family Jewels Inn,” because i’m hilarious like that. Outside the inn was a small ceramic doll store, which stood just behind the goat pen, where there were goats. Behind the inn were more pens, where llamas and al paca frolicked. There were also geese, i guess, but geese are obnoxious so i’m not going to go on about them.

It was obvious that the older lady who ran the inn was using it as a front for her hobbies. We later learned that she actually sheared the llamas and al paca, spun their wool into yarn, and knitted the stuff into sweaters and things to sell in her shop. THAT, my friends, is hardcore. i was almost surprised to hear she didn’t give birth to the animals herself. i wondered a few times whether i should have told her that you can buy sweaters in stores now, but i doubt she’d be able to hear me over the din of the butter churn.

The innkeeper recommended two places for dinner. We chose the second because it had a more diverse menu. The restaurant was only five minutes up the road, so we hopped in the rent-a-car and headed out.

As we discovered, the place was an absolute barn. That is to say it was an actual, bona fide barn on some kind of fantasy ranch where they raised cattle and rented cabins. We parked outside and fought our way past a mob of mulleted kids who looked straight from the 70’s who were tooling around the parking lot for whatever reason. Each one of them, boy and girl alike, looked like that really scruffy kid from the Bad News Bears, or that kid in the after school special i saw in 1982. “Hail New Brunswick,” i thought and, shrugging, headed into the barn.

The interior of the place was like the kind of hall you’d rent if you were getting married and lived in a very small town like Hopewell, New Brunswick. It was a very large space, and only have of it was being used to seat people. The patrons took their meals at collapsible banquet tables with plastic tablecloths. It looked like bingo night. A very strange restaurant indeed - i held out no hope of a decent meal.

We asked the waitress what she recommended, and she pointed us to the steak. She said that since the restaurant was on a ranch, the beef would be very fresh and that the kitchen staff really knew how to grill a piece of meat. So i ordered the steak on a bun, and my wife went with the steak on a plate.

My wife’s employers treat her very, very well. She has eaten in some of the fanciest steak joints in Toronto - places where one slab of beef will run you fifty or sixty bucks. And here comes this 8 oz mystery from the barn kitchen, and neither of us knew what to expect.

But if we had, we’d have worn diapers in preparation.

The steak was easily one of the best my wife had ever eaten. It was so juicy, so flavourful, and so tender, that it was like biting into a live cow. It was one of our best memories of New Brunswick - no joke. i remember the llamas in the backyard of the inn. i remember the warning signs above the staircase leading to the Hopewell rocks. And i remember that steak. i almost want to have a moment of silence for that steak right now. i feel i need to construct some kind of wreath and lay it at the base of a statue. That was one fantastic steak. Thank you, dodgy barn restaurant. And thank you, cow. You were delicious.

When we woke up back at the Family Jewels (ha ha ha! me so funny!), we went down to breakfast, where we broke our fast, having been served breakfast. There was a big racket from the room across the hall, where a noisy bird kept repeating in a croaky voice “Where’s my breakfast? Give me my breakfast, NOW!” We got to see the llamas running, which is hilarious, and every so often a hummingbird would visit the feeder outside the window and eat some hummingbird food. i think they eat steak.

i had a big ball of bacon, which wrenched me off the wagon. There i stayed for the remainder of the trip, me and my bacon balls and my fish n’ chips and my ice cream, while the weight loss wagon rolled farther and farther out of sight. But no matter, i keep telling myself - that’s what vacation’s all about.

We took a few goat pictures and packed up the car; we were on to Halifax, our true destination, where an old friend of mine was due to get married and where, in a few short days, my wife would nearly strip naked in front of a group of total strangers.

Our hostess takes her life into her hands with an angry bird that wants its breakfast - NOW

Our hostess takes her life into her hands with an angry bird that wants its breakfast - NOW

A tiny hummingbird enjoys a nice porterhouse from the feeder outside our window

A tiny hummingbird enjoys a nice porterhouse from the feeder outside our window

A pen full of domesticated goats enjoy custom-built elevated ramps to remind them of the mountains they've never climbed

A pen full of domesticated goats enjoy custom-built elevated ramps to remind them of the mountains they’ve never climbed

Allyson @ 1:42 pm
Filed under: Etc